The car is fantastic fun, and it's hard not to grin the whole time you're driving it.
I'm doing my best to stay under 4000 rpm before the first service (1000mi) but 4000 is just where the turbo starts to take off, so it's very hard to keep doing what feels like a short-shift.
As many have observed, the gap between 3rd and 4th gear is too wide, but once I'm able to open up the engine, I'm hoping I'll notice this less.
The ride is firm but comfortable, and the driving position is wonderfully comfortable too in the leather seats.
The seat bolts protrude under the car, and I have caught them on speed bumps more than once. No damage done, and they will come off when I get the Dremel out in the next couple of days.
My two immediate additions/upgrades are for practically and safety:
The most convenient place I could find to mount the socket was inside the strange-shaped fuse box guard. This piece of metal has plenty of room above, in front of the fusebox, and the RHS is open. I fitted the socket using its provided sticky clip-on base (we'll see if that stands the test of time - if not, I'll bolt it on - so for convenience the socket can be unclipped if I need to remove it or the fuse cover.
I bought the sub-loom designed for the job from Caterham - only £9. And the light itself was another cheap Amazon special:
I'm doing my best to stay under 4000 rpm before the first service (1000mi) but 4000 is just where the turbo starts to take off, so it's very hard to keep doing what feels like a short-shift.
As many have observed, the gap between 3rd and 4th gear is too wide, but once I'm able to open up the engine, I'm hoping I'll notice this less.
The ride is firm but comfortable, and the driving position is wonderfully comfortable too in the leather seats.
The seat bolts protrude under the car, and I have caught them on speed bumps more than once. No damage done, and they will come off when I get the Dremel out in the next couple of days.
My two immediate additions/upgrades are for practically and safety:
1. 12v & USB supply
I wanted a 12v cig lighter socket to attach to my Optimate charger. And I want a USB socket or two to charge phones/GoPro etc while driving.
Hidden away under the scuttle (behind the dashboard) is a 2-way multi T-connector, connected to the fusebox and 'always on' - the connector is powered whether the key is in the ignition or not. They are easy to find on eBay:
Hidden away under the scuttle (behind the dashboard) is a 2-way multi T-connector, connected to the fusebox and 'always on' - the connector is powered whether the key is in the ignition or not. They are easy to find on eBay:
So I bought one of these from Ultimate Addons on Amazon for about £18.
"Motorcycle 5V 2 Amp Power Supply 2 USB Dual Ports & Cigarette Socket Handlebar Mount"
There is an inline fuse already there, but as I'm connecting via the car's fusebox, I cut this off, and then made up the other half of the 2-way T-connector. Polarity is black/earth on the horizontal bit of the T, and red/live on the vertical bit of the T.
The most convenient place I could find to mount the socket was inside the strange-shaped fuse box guard. This piece of metal has plenty of room above, in front of the fusebox, and the RHS is open. I fitted the socket using its provided sticky clip-on base (we'll see if that stands the test of time - if not, I'll bolt it on - so for convenience the socket can be unclipped if I need to remove it or the fuse cover.
2. High level brake light
Caterham brake lights are very close to the ground. And when you're driving the car, you can feel that most drivers are way up in the air. Plus Caterham brake lights aren't very bright either... So it makes sense to fit a third brake light under the roll-over bar. Still not very high, but if you make it bright enough, people will get the idea and hopefully not roll into the back of the car.
I bought the sub-loom designed for the job from Caterham - only £9. And the light itself was another cheap Amazon special:
"Ring Automotive RL097 28-LED High Level Brake Light"
The subloom connects very easily, with easy access from under the RH rear corner of the car (no need to lift the boot floor etc). Simply unclip the multiconnector which connects the rear light cluster, and put the loom 'in between'. The two wires to the 3rd brake light then snake up through the fuel filler cover, and I taped them (with black insulating tape) under the rear rollover bar support up to the top bar.
The light itself is secured with two cable ties, covered in black insulating tape, but in time I might make this a bit more permanent. In fact, I am thinking of changing the rollover bar to a FIA one, so I don't want to drill holes or put rivnuts in it if I'm going to try and sell it on...
All in all, these jobs took not much more than an hour, and are well worth it. The difference in brake light brightness is huge, and adding the power supply in the car just makes things a bit easier too.
