Day 5: front RHS suspension completed

As expected, things are easier second time around and everything went together easily on the RHS front suspension.
The but for the front upper wishbone bolt is so close to the body skin that you might need to hold it firmly pushing inwards while you wind the bolt into it. It's a matter of chassis alignment that I don't think builders can fix. Any scratches to the skin are at least hidden behind the nut.

Just the anti-roll bar to fit, and then the engine bay...

Cheap pipe lagging from B&Q has protected the chassis tubes nicely from stray spanners...

Day 4: front LHS suspension completed

Not a great deal to add here. The small bag marked 'Uprights' has the correct nyloc nut for the bottom of the upright. Follow the manual carefully and all should work ok.
I'm not convinced the lighting bracket won't flop outwards and damage the skin, but once everything is torqued up I hope it will be fine. I may take it off, clean any Coppa Ease off it, and replace it just to make sure.

Day 3: front suspension continued, headlights

Still without the IVA trim, but with the IVA covers for the track rods, I ploughed on with the front suspension and lighting.
NOTE: you should really get the IVA trim before you do this. It's a lot harder once the lights have been assembled

For front lighting, I thoroughly recommend Daniel French's blog - in fact, it's an excellent blog for the entire build, with good photos and some original ideas. Daniel makes a much tidier job of the link between indicator and headlamp. My advice: take it slowly, think about every single move, and trust in Daniel! The indicator green cable on the LHS only just makes it to the connector on the wiring loom, but is fine on the RHS.

UPDATE: there is one thing that Daniel doesn't mention. You need to plan carefully how much wire eventually comes out into the engine bay. You get no points for having loads of spare wire rattling around, so plan how much you need to reach the loom connector, add a couple of inches, and then draw back the rest of the wires into the headlamp casing. Obviously, only then can you put your heat shrink in and make it all permanent. 

I found this out the hard way...

Part-way through the indicator build. Spot the lack of IVA trim - to be completed when it arrives. The heatshrink makes everything feel tidy and secure

With the lights sorted out, I could carry on and complete the front left corner. The front right needs to wait for.... a grommet. It's frustrating how one poxy little rubber grommet can hold things up!

UPDATE: At the end of the build, getting ready for IVA, I also put a small grommet in the hole where the the heatshrinked lighting wires first enter the headlight bracket. It's a lot easier to do this now, rather than at the end of the build.
 

LHS front suspension, work in progress

The cap head bolt at the top of the shock went in easily, and I didn't need to manipulate the skin at all, thankfully. The bottom end of the shock feels a little loose - the bush at the bottom is wider than the cap head bolt that goes through it, and it rattles when you shake the lower wishbone. I will check this, and update the blog once it's confirmed as correct.

Next job, the LH upright, and the remainder of the front RHS suspension.

Meanwhile, my wooden boot floor has yet another coat of stain/varnish, and is starting to look rather smart!

Day 2: waxoyl, front suspension start, and heater

A bit of a frustrating start, as I don't have the IVA parts that are needed to:
- put around the indicators
- cover the ends of the steering racks
So I couldn't complete the front suspension as planned. But some progress made.

I Waxoyled the chassis, focusing on the areas where the frame meets the aluminium panels. The Waxoyl plastic hand pump turned out to be a waste of time, not maintaining enough pressure for more than a few seconds of fairly violent and messy squirting, but that may have been user error...

In the end, I warmed the cannister up in a bucket of hot tap water, stirring regularly and eventually achieving the consistency and appearance of melted garlic butter. Then, it's very easy to paint the frame/skin joins with a 1" paintbrush. The white spirit solvent runs into the gaps, and then evaporates, leaving buttery wax behind. Before the engine goes in, I will go round again, from underneath, and make sure nothing was missed. And also the gaps between the skins around the cockpit, which I will resurrect the hand pump squirter for one last go!

The steering rack is easy to sort out.

Cross-member for mounting the steering rack

And the lower wishbones went in. A couple of tips:

1. make sure the chamfered washers are 'back-to back', i.e. the chamfered edges are on the outside of each pair

2. it is a real squeeze to get the washers in, but they will go in. Essentially, you're fighting against the bush, which is pushing outwards. I managed it by pushing the bolt through the first (rear washer), and then gently tapping the front washer into the gap using a screwdriver blade and rubber mallet (sounds like high-risk tactics, but I mean really small taps). The Coppa Ease that covers everything will help them slide in place

3. once you think the washers are seated properly, then you can gently drive the bolt through them, and beyond through the chassis

4. by contrast, the front arm is much easier to get the washers in. If possible, clear the threads out in the chassis before you start - mine had a bit of paint/swarf which needed clearing.

RH lower wishbone, rear bolt, not tightened up

RH lower wishbone, front bolt

And another coat of varnish on the boot plywood floor, both sides.

Then, I fitted the heater, which is easy. I did run a thin line of clear sealant around the plastic lip at the top of the heater, and about half way down the sides - it looks as if rain could possibly get in along the top, and then run down into the heater casing. This squeezed nicely into place when the bolts were done up.

LHS, heater & fittings

Inside, LHS, heater vents. The two electrical plugs fit together easily

On the inside, the heater vents can be spun around the face the right way (I went for a jaunty angle - see above).

Hopefully, Derek will get me the missing IVA bits tomorrow and I can finish each front corner suspension.l